Even KFC wants to be a nice place to sit now

Food

Max Lawton

KFC is testing a new restaurant with table service, a more open room and a bit more hospitality. Fair enough. Fast food got very good at speed, but somewhere along the way it forgot that people still like sitting down.

KFC trying to make a nicer restaurant is a small thing, but a good one.

The company is testing a new concept called Open House in McKinney, Texas, with table service, a drive-thru, takeaway and a more open dining room. It is still KFC, so no one needs to get silly about it. This is not a neighbourhood bistro. It is chicken, chips, sauces, buckets and probably a lot of people eating too quickly. But still, a fast food place trying to feel a bit less like a pickup counter with chairs? Good.

Fast food used to have rooms people actually used. Not beautiful rooms, usually. Not rooms anyone would put on a moodboard. But rooms. Teenagers sat there too long after school. Families stopped in after sport. Kids had birthdays under terrible lighting. Someone ate alone in the corner and nobody made it weird. It was cheap, easy, public and a little bit ugly, which is not always a bad combination.

Then everything got more efficient. The app got better. The drive-thru got faster. The shelf appeared. The room became the bit you passed through on your way to the bag. Useful, yes. Sometimes exactly what you need. But also pretty grim if that becomes the whole idea.

That is probably why this KFC thing works as a small signal. Not because it is revolutionary. It is not. More because it notices something very obvious that a lot of brands somehow forgot: people still like being hosted, even lightly.

Hospitality does not have to mean candles, linen napkins and someone explaining the potato. Sometimes it is just a clean table, a room that feels like someone thought about it, and staff who are not treated like an obstacle between you and the order number. The bar is not high. That might be the point.

There is something especially right about this with fried chicken. It is not tidy food. It wants a table. It wants napkins, sauces, reaching across, someone stealing the last piece, a bit of mess. Eating it alone in a parked car has its place. We have all been there, spiritually if not literally. But it should not be the dream.

KFC is still doing what big brands do. There will be strategy, testing, rollout plans and someone somewhere saying “guest experience” in a meeting. Fine. If the end result is a room that feels a bit warmer and less dead, take the win.

No one needs poetry from a chicken chain. Just give people a place to sit that does not feel like it wants them gone.

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interesting. is an independent New Zealand editorial platform.

interesting. is an independent New Zealand editorial platform.